Cascade Mountaineers | Mt. Shasta Hotlum-Bolam Route
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Mt. Shasta Hotlum-Bolam Route

Mt. Shasta Hotlum-Bolam Route

Dates: May 31-June 1, 2014

Team Leader: Frank Florence

Outing Description: This is a moderate snow climb on the north side of Mt. Shasta (14,162’).  Round trip distance is ca. 10 miles.  Elevation gain from trailhead to summit is ca. 7200 feet.

Meet: SE corner of the Mt. Bachelor Park-and-Ride, Columbia St., Bend, 8 AM, Sat. morning.  Anticipate a 4-5 hour drive from Bend to the North Gate trailhead.

SaturdayThe group will hike up to camp from the North Gate trailhead Saturday afternoon.  We will make camp at about the 9,000 foot level.  It is likely we will be camping on snow and using snow for water.

Sunday:  The group will make an alpine start (4AM) and ascend snow fields (some rock scrambling possible) W of the Hotlum Glacier onto the Hotlum-Bolam Ridge.  We can either follow the ridge proper (some scrambling) or move up through snow to ”the Step,” a short rocky band.  From there we’ll pass the ‘Rabbit Ears’ (pinnacles) up through more moderate angle snow, skirt “the Sharktooth (another rock tower) and make our way to the summit. Descent will down the same line.  Total trip time estimate: 10-12 hours.


 Prerequisite Skills: All climbers must be familiar with safe travel on snow, including crusty snow and/or stretches of icy conditions.  (Not recommended for the novice climber.)  This includes use of crampons and ice axe.  A bomb-proof self-arrest is essential.  Depending on snow and ice, we will likely be roped for part of the climb, so climbers must also know the basics of roped travel on snow.

Permits:  A National Forest parking permit is required for each vehicle.  Each climber must have a Summit Permit ($20) and the party is required to have a Wilderness Permit.  Self-issue Summit and Wilderness permits can be obtained at the trailhead.

Number of CM Participants:  6 maximum.  Current membership with the Cascade Mountaineers required.

Equipment:  Backpacking gear for one night out (pack, tent, sleeping bag and pad, stove and kitchen items, one dinner, one breakfast.) Summit pack, appropriate clothing including extra layers and gloves or mittens, headlamp with fresh batteries, sunglasses or goggles, trail food and snacks, ten essentials. 2-3 liters of water in bottles (not a hydropack.  Summit conditions very likely will be below freezing.)  Harness, helmet, 1 ice axe, mountaineering boots, pre-fitted crampons, 2 locking carabiners, belay/rappel device.  Snowshoes, trekking poles or ski poles for use on the way to camp.

Group climbing gear will be provided, including rope and snow anchors.  Party members can arrange to share stoves and tents.

Contact Frank if interested:

(315) 788-0544(cell) or

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