Cascade Mountaineers | 7.10 – Mt. Shasta, CA – West Bolam Glacier Route
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7.10 – Mt. Shasta, CA – West Bolam Glacier Route

7.10 – Mt. Shasta, CA – West Bolam Glacier Route

Cascades Mountaineers Outing (membership required to participate)

Location: Mt. Shasta, CA – West Bolam Glacier Route

Team Leader: Bill Strycharz

Date: July 20-21, 2013

Target Audience: Intermediate to advanced climbers who are in very good to excellent physical condition. Climbers must be comfortable with considerable exposure on 45+ degree slopes.

Prerequisites: Climbers should have summited one “fourteener” before or equivalent of a 7,000’+ vertical gain climb. Climbers should have experience on steep slopes such as the South Side Mt Hood route or equivalent. Climbers will have demonstrated proficiency in at least one form of Crevasse Rescue; Self rescue or team rescue. Climbers will have basic glacier travel skills; movement on rope teams, self arrest. If you do not have this necessary knowledge, CM will be having Prussik self rescue training on July 10th.

Day 1 From North Gate trailhead at 7,000’ enter Mt Shasta Wilderness. We will hike south 2.5 miles up the North side of Mt Shasta to 10,200’ and camp at the Hotlum-Bolam Base Camp Area.
Day 2 Alpine Start. We will gain access on the Hotlum-Bolum Ridge and traverse west across the Bolam Glacier. At a point deemed safe we will head up the glacier crossing several bergschrunds (large crevasses). Most of the first half of the glacier climb is on 30+ degree angle, however the upper glacier is 40+ degrees. The upper glacier gives way to rock gullies of which we will pick the safest one to ascend to the summit plateau. We will descend on the same route as ascent. Our bailout is to gain the Whitney-Bolam ridge to the west of the West Bolam Glacier, descend and traverse back to our start on the Hotlum-Bolam Ridge.

Saturday July 20- Meet at 8 am in Bend. Drive/carpool to North Side of Mt Shasta 3 hours. Take Military Road to North Gate Trailhead. Hike to Hotlum-Bolam Base Camp Area 3-4 hours.
Sunday July 21- Alpine Start. Climb West Bolam Glacier route. Return to Camp. Hike out or spend night- group decision.

Equipment: Overnight backpacking gear. Harness, helmet, 2 ice axes or (1 ice tool and 1 ice axe), climbing boots, crampons, 2 locking carabiners, 1 picket each, two 6mm prussik ropes (1×13’ 1×6’), cold weather gear. Sunglasses or goggles. Ten essentials.

Contact: Team Leader Bill Strycharz to Apply 541-77-9159
or email

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