03 Jul 08.24 – Three Fingered Jack climb
Cascades Mountaineers Club Outing (membership required)
Three Fingered Jack, South Ridge
Outing Coordinator: Rod Jacobson
Date: Aug. 24th, 2013
Start: PCT Trailhead, N. side – Santiam pass.
Elevation Gain: ~3,500′ actual vert., ~13 miles round trip
Meeting Time/Place: 6am Friday morning, PCT parking lot across the highway from Hoodoo. For those who would like to car-pool, we will meet at the Mt. Bachelor Park-n-Ride @ 5am. Don’t forget your NW Trail Pass.
Directions to Start: From Bend take Hwy 20 West through Sisters and toward Hoodoo Ski Area and Santiam Pass. About five miles past Suttle Lake and a quarter mile before the Hoodoo/Big Lake turn off, turn right at the PCT trailhead sign. We want to get an early start to avoid begin held up by slower/larger parties ahead of us at the “Crawl”. Drive time from Bend is a little less than one hour.
Outing Description: After a brief meeting, we’ll obtain a Wilderness Permit then start the approach. We’ll hike along the Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail (PCT) for about five miles until we come to a distinct climber’s trail that heads up toward the South ridge. It’s a good idea to stash some water here for the hike out. We’ll gain the ridge at about 7,000 ft and continue up the ridge for another 600 ft vertical or so until we come to the beginning of the “Crawl”. The Crawl is a traverse of about 80 ft. with some exposure so we’ll prepare a fixed line and cross attached to the line via 2 personal anchor systems (PASs) each, and then on to the base of the summit chimney. From there, I will lead climb the chimney, setup an anchor system & belay everyone else up. There’s very little room at the top of 3FJ so we will have to take turns, which will be time consuming. We’ll rap down the chimney and descend nearly the same route, cleaning as we go. Total time start to finish: ~ 10-12 hrs. (depending on traffic).
Equipment and Clothing: In addition to the “10 essentials” we will each need a helmet, a harness w/ 2 PASs& a locking carabiner. Have clothing available for snow, rain, wind, sun, freezing and summer-like conditions; in other words, be ready for anything. I’ll bring a couple of ropes, which we will all take turns carrying, and set the required rock pro / fixed line.
Skills, Experience and Fitness Level: 3FJ is not a hard climb but does involve 4th and 5th class rock climbing skill and fixed line travel with some pretty serious exposure. Participants should be physically capable of hiking 13 miles with a 3,500′ elevation gain & have basic rock climbing skills/experience.
Participation and RSVP Requirements: This climb is limited to 8 climbers. RSVP by Aug. 15th.
Contact for more information: Rod Jacobson, 541-408-3500 or, firstname.lastname@example.org